One Polish Palm Tree

A drizzly grey day is just the thing to set the post Soviet noir vibe.  I know I've referred to WWII a lot but you cannot travel around Europe (this part in particular) without constantly bumping into a reminder.  In 1944, with the Russians just across the river the Polish Home Army in Warsaw arose.   The Soviets, never ones to let an opportunity go by, stopped and let the Nazis and Poles slug it out.  For two months the outnumbered and under equipped  Poles fought the Nazis.  In the end they were wiped out.  As a symbol of what happens when you oppose him Hitler ordered everyone in Warsaw killed and the city razed.  

In 1945, with 2 out of every 3 Varsovians dead and the entire city in ruins the Poles had to decide whether to start over somewhere else or rebuild their capital.   They decided to rebuild.  With the Soviets in firm control this process dragged on.  Even today it continues.

Starting at the palm tree we headed down Nowy Świat, one of Warsaw's main thoroughfares, the other being Jerusalem Avenue (hence the Palm tree).  This is a modern pedestrian, shopping thoroughfare and could be anywhere.  In front of the Copernicus Science Centre is a statue of Copernicus complete with the Solar System as he knew it.

Another interesting feature we discovered was a Chopin bench.  These benches are placed around the city at points that were significant to Chopin.  The cool bit is that when you press a button on the bench it plays a Chopin number. 

The next stop was the Church of the Holy Cross.  This church is significant because in one of its pillars is embedded Chopin's heart.  We saw the rest of him a few years ago at Pére Lachaise, Paris.

A little side trip down to what once was the Royal Square but now is just a giant concrete field.  At the far side is the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.   We were just in time to see the changing of the guards.

Continuing down the street to the Palace Square in the Old Town we decided to take a palace tour.  On the outside the palace doesn't look like much, just a big pink building.  But on the inside - wow!   

All the grandeur of Schönbrunn and Versailles without the choking crowds.  By skillfully dodging a couple of tour groups we actually had most of these rooms to ourselves.  

Fading rapidly we headed in a homeward direction, stopping in at Blikle Bakery, Warsaw's favourite coffee shop and bakery to try a paczki.  These are a Warsaw specialty and are rose-flavoured jelly donuts.  In Kraków their local specialty is obwarzanek, a ring-shaped bagel-like roll.  These things were everywhere and were cheap, fresh and good.   Because we could never remember their real names I called them "breadchewskies", in mock Polish.